Archive for August, 2008

You’d think we were in New York

We have been doing a lot of fine dining already since arriving in Nairobi. Pedro and Cheryl took us to Tamarind, one of the best seafood restaurants in the city. We ordered this huge platter of fresh seafood. YUM. Derek and I have also tried out some tasty Indian restaurants with Haandi being the most famous and best. The food is heavy, but is excellent. So much better than what you get in New York. We have tried Japanese – Furusato which was surprisingly fresh and authentic. Talisman, a Karen white African hangout was just alright, haughty and way overpriced. Arte des Cafe near the UN was really good and was more ‘fusion’ food not to be confused with Arte Caffe in Westgate Mall, which serves creamy strong lattes. We had burritos at Java House, which were more tex mex-ish. Not bad, but not great. We have yet to try Italiano but there are a few to try. I have been impressed overall but I must say, the prices of these places are somewhat comparable to NY. Nairobi ain’t cheap. What you do get is service with no attitude (as opposed to annoyed hipster waiters who act like you are doing them a favor), beautiful outdoor garden settings (as opposed to sitting on a raunchy sidewalk with homeless people grabbing at your hair and of course, smokers), and empty restaurants (no waiting for three hours and carrying around beepers).

I guess we aren’t in New York after all…

As Ozzy says, Bark at the Moon

And the guard dogs that live with us, and watch over our safety once dark, are doing just that every night. The last two nights have been particularly intense, waking me up out of my sleep. Right around 11:00, they start howling. Once they start, you can hear about 20 other dogs in the hood howl back. It sounds like a chorus but I wonder what they are saying to each other? Derek thinks one of the neighbor’s dogs is in heat and all the male dogs are letting her know who is the big dog in town. Or, maybe they are just obsessed by the devil, ala Ozzy? I am leaning towards the obsessed – I caught Suzie on film looking a little crazed by the moon…

suzie the obsessed

suzie the obsessed

Nairobi National Park

So, if you drive for about 20 minutes down Langata Road in Nairobi towards Karen (yes, I had a Farm in Africa Karen), you hit the Nairobi National Park. You can take your car right into the park and pay about 1000 Kenya Schillings a person (about $17 bucks) and you are in the wilderness. Some say the park serves as a corridor for wildlife to the Rift Valley. Not too sure about that but you do get to see zebra, hartebeests, giraffes, baboons and other critters roaming freely, ungated and minding their own business. We spent about 4 hours driving around and it felt like we left Nairobi for the day on a safari. Check out the photos below but dont get too excited. We didn’t see any lions or leopards. Or elephants (tembo in Kswahili!)…

Derek also posted a cool video of our explorations.

Find Myself a City to Live In

We have been in Nairobi for three weeks and New York already feels like a distant memory to me. Strange feeling to have lived in Gotham for 8 years and at times, wasn’t sure if I would capable of leaving it. Although is one of the larger cities in Africa, I feel like my lifestyle has completely changed.

Most days, I don’t leave the Runda/Gigiri area, because I am living and working near the UN area. Each day I wake up, Derek drives me in Pedro and Cheryl’s pink hippo car to the UN gym, I work out then walk right next door to The World Agroforestry Centre, work all day pretty intensely and then Derek picks me up before dark, around 5:30. From there, internet access at home is sketchy so we usually enjoy a nice home cooked meal, do some reading and relax. I think we will spend more time outside once the weather is warmer. Because it is the cold season for Nairobi, nights are cold.

Many nights we stop at the Village Market in Runda. All around our hood and close by hoods like Westlands, Parklands, etc, there are “malls” which have a big Nakumatt (like a Walmart but also a grocery store), shops, Safaricom (the cell guys), and restaurants. Everyone seems to hang out at these, as they are safe places, but it reminds me a bit of Phoenix where everyone goes out to eat in malls. Strange departure from NY in which malls have always failed.

We live in a guest house behind a very large house in the neighborhood of Runda. It is about 4 km from the UN complex. There is a caretaker, who never leaves the “compound.” If we want to leave, he has to unlock the gate and let us out. Even if we want to go on a bike ride. At 6 pm, the night guard takes over, and guards the property until 6 am. This sort of living is strange and difficult to get used to.

Our landlord has a house dog who has some sort of skin rash on his nose and eyes. He is also deaf. At night, the nightguard let’s out the “guard dogs” that are cooped up all day. Two are labs and the other two are rottweiler/doberman mix dogs. They smell and are not the most friendly…

I have walked and biked to work but it takes a long time. Every morning and night there are streams of predominantly if not all Kenyans walking to and from work. I assume most work in the neighborhood as maids or caretakers or security, or are walking from the nearby small slum that sits right outside Runda. Everyone driving are expats, Indians, wealthy Kenyans. The disparities are so in your face here.

Before we left NY, people kept asking me what I would miss the most about NY. I would always say it is difficult to answer until you miss it. Well, I don’t miss much with the exception of one thing. Freedom. Freedom to walk around. Freedom to not be stared at. Freedom to leave work when I want. Freedom of feeling safe. I think most take advantage of that in the United States, particularly in places like New York City, which is so safe. At least now.

Derek has been blogging about our adventures but below are some photos of all the hood, work, and all things Gigiri and Runda.

Landed in Nairobi

So, we made it. After the chaos of lost bags, crashed computers, and car-less days, we have solidly landed in Nairobi to start a new life. Hopefully not a decadent “expat” life, but one that is completely different than the America and New York City life that we have lived for the last 30+ years…

Our little guest house in the neighborhood Runda, has outdoor space where you can sip your morning coffee although, it has been cold here and i am still waiting for a sunny morning. No one told me it would be colder than NY…

our guest house in Runda

our guest house in Runda

Cadillac Ranch, Amarillo Texas

Before we landed in Nairobi, we took the all American road trip across the midwest. All I have to say is, good luck Obama. You have your work cut out for you…

We saw many a things, but this particular attraction stood out – a strange and random roadside stop of half buried, spray-painted cadillacs sitting in the middle of a random cornfield outside Amarillo Texas. Yeehaw.